Wednesday 8 June 2022

RESEARCH - Medieval England - Post 7: Food, Drink, Wassail, Feasts, Cutlery and Table Manners

 Food, Glorious Food!

My photo taken at Avebury Manor

From farming, we are invited to look more closely at food.

There were ‘flesh’ and ‘fish’ days in Medieval England. 

Basically, on every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, fish and not flesh would be eaten (by the wealthy, of course – the peasants would mostly eat bread, cheese and vegetables). Meat free Monday? Nope, but there were three whole other days. But this was for religious not vegetarian reasons. Although, certain friars did only ever eat fish.

In a later post on religion, I’ll look at the hard fast/Ember Days too.

 

There are mixed theories on meal times. Certainly, in the earlier medieval period, most people seemed to have just two meals a day. But by the Late Middle Ages, three meals were consumed. This is how I understand it to be – others say different. And of course, this is a rich person’s approach.

Typically, those lucky enough to dwell in manor houses would rise with the sun. Yes, actual dawn! Following morning Mass, they would have a modest breakfast of (white) bread and wine or ale. Start the day off right, eh? Phew, what happened to, “It’s a bit early for me?” Well, the water would most likely kill you if you drank that, so alcohol it was!

Only around 8 householders would eat together for morning meal. The kitchen staff  and food servers would grab what they could from the pantry ‘on the go’.


Lunch – only came in during the Late Middle Ages.

Lunch was confusingly referred to as dinner back then.

A light serving of meat/fish, bread and soup/pottage would be served with yes, more ale or wine. The pottage the upper classes ate was obviously better quality than the peasants’ version – more herbs/spices/meat were added.

It later fell out of fashion, as I know "nuncheon" was re-introduced in the Regency era. I suppose at some point in the interim, people started eating better at breakfast.

Dinner (called supper at the time) was apparently the lavish meal. All sorts of people would be in attendance; the bailiff, officials, farm workers, tenant farmers etc. Details of what was eaten listed below.

Brightly coloured food was fashionable – red, yellow and blue would often adorn the table! On May Day, all food was coloured green.


However, it occurs to me, that especially when entertaining other nobles, one would consider the distances travelled. Roads were unsafe, especially in the dark. So, mayhap, their main "dinner" meal would've been at what we now call lunch (midday/noon). 

Grace would be said before every meal by the chaplain. Religion was ever present.

Meals were communal affairs. All the household would eat together. Towards the end of the medieval period, nobles began to dine alone in privacy but were considered snooty for so doing. After all, there was an interdependence between all people, and that was to be honoured. 

 

Dishes

So, what did they eat? Well, perhaps better than we thought.

The average daily helping (including the inedible bits) was around 1lb per person. The rich ate mainly meat, declaring vegetables poor man’s food.

 

Meat







Beef and pork were eaten all year except during Lent.

The high status folks also had veal and capon (castrated cockerel) most of the year. They would also eat swans, particularly at Christmas. Heron and peacocks were also seen on tables. Smaller birds, such as lark and plover were on the menu too.

All summer – lamb and mutton were available

Pigeons were only eaten in summer

November – the Martinmas kill would occur, so some beef was eaten, with the rest of it being salted and preserved to sustain them through winter

December to July – suckling pig

December to August – veal was on the menu

Chicken, pheasant, partridge, duck and goose were commonly eaten.

Rabbits are slightly controversial as there is contradictory evidence when they were introduced, and they struggled to breed at first (ironic, eh?). But we do know coney was on the menu – these were bunnies bred for the table.

And don’t forget venison – sorry, Bambi! Deer parks were kept for the lords to go hunting – sport and food purposes.

 

Fish

Fish was surprisingly plentiful, even in towns. Although, if there were three fish days every week, plus the whole Lent period, maybe it's not so very surprising.

One could purchase herrings in bulk. Smoked red herrings were cheaper than their pickled white cousins.

When herrings were scarce, barrels of salmon and sturgeon could be bought.

Salt fish and stockfish were a constant dinner option.

If one lived near the coast, the following would be available:

~ brill, butts (stop sniggering; this was a flat fish), cod, crabs, crayfish, flathe, garfish, haddock, mackerel, merling, mussels, oysters, plaice, sea-pike, shrimp, skate, sole, sparling, turbot and whelks

- And yet, try to buy those in your fish section or fish & chip shop these days! We really should eat more types of fish.

Special note on oysters – they were plentiful and cheap but the cost went up ½ d. at Christmas as the demand was so high. Also, “never eat an oyster unless there’s an R in the month” is a thing – they’re dangerously poisonous May-Aug.

If one had a miller with a stew pond, eels could be farmed there.

 

Cheese


 Mmm...cheese! Yes, they did have the stuff. I'm just going to list the types available along with the approx. time they took to make. 

{  Beaufort (French, firm elastic, aging 6-14months); Brie (3-6 weeks)

{  Camembert (3-5 weeks)

{  Cheddar (first recorded use is in 1500)(2months to 2years age) – but first called Cheddar 1655

{  Comté 

{  Cottage

{  Emmenthal (6-14months)

{  Farmer’s 

{  Gloucester (first recorded use is in 1697)

{  Grana (first recorded use is in 1200) 

{ Gorgonzola (first recorded use is in 879)

{  Gouda (first recorded use is in 1697)(3 month aging)

{  Gruyére (7weeks to 3months age) 

{ Maroilles 

{ Mozzarella (30days)

{  Parmesan (first recorded use is in 1579)(10-24months) 

{ Port-Salut 

{ Reblochon

{  Rewen/Rowen/Ruayn (Autumn cheese, made after the cattle had fed on the second growth. This was apparently a semi-soft cheese, but not as soft as a ripe modern Brie: one period recipe says to grate it. It appears to be the same cheese that in France today is called fromage de gaing or  Tart de Bry

{  Ricotta  

{ Romano (5-12months) 

{ Roquefort (first recorded use is in 1070)(2-4months) 

{ Spermyse (soft or cream cheese flavored with herbs) 

{ Stilton


Fruit 







Fruit was made into preserves (jam) and baked into pies. In lieu of sugar, they were great as sweeteners. Apples, pears and plums were perhaps most commonly found. 


Dessert






As if all that wasn't enough, there was a dessert course. Because, we all know there's 'dessert tummy' space, even when full. 

Cakes weren't really a thing. There were a few, such as honey cakes. But as there wasn't any self-raising flour, they leaned towards the bready end of the spectrum. 

Pastry was huge though. I make mention in my book of apple and blackberry pie; totally a thing. And one of my own favourites (not that you'd tell from the way it's written in Love in the Roses)! 😜 

Other dishes included plums sweetened in rosewater or pears stewed in honey and wine. Cream custard tarts were available. Cold custards and milky desserts were on offer. 

Rose pudding was made by blanching white rose petals and mixing with warm milk and cornflour, cinnamon, sugar, ginger, chopped dates and pine nuts - and cooled.


Bread, Wine and Ale








The poor ate brown bread whilst the rich ate white. Really, the serfs should have been far healthier than their lords if solely their diet was considered. Obviously and sadly, not the case though.

Bread and ale were usually home made/brewed and were available to all.

The rich drank wine – often red being more popular as white went off faster.

Annual purchases of wine could be:

3 ½ pipes (1 pipe = 105 imperial gallons) of red wine

2 hogsheads (1 hogshead = approx. 52 imperial gallons) of white wine


Beer and ale were drunk by all classes. 

Posset Ale - was warmed milk mixed with ale (or wine), and was often spiced. The addition of egg yolks seems to have been optional. But it appears to have been a forerunner of eggnog. 

It was enjoyed as a sleep aid and to cure colds and indigestion. It was even considered an aphrodisiac. It does sound very comforting. 

Mulled wine - hot, spiced wine - very tasty stuff!

I'd also like to mention wassail. Heated cider, laced with spices such as cloves, cinnamon and ginger. Traditionally drunk as part of Christmas festivities. 

To go wassailing is to gather in the orchards, sprinkling this hot cider around the trees to protect them from evil spirits. It became a thing for Twelfth Night (the end of Christmastide). This evolved into a practice where people would go door-to-door, singing in return for a cup of wassail. This could get drunkenly violent! 

A (not medieval) recipe I found

Pottage




 


I did feel pottage deserved its own heading. It was eaten by rich and poor alike. Although, the richer you were, the better the ingredients. 

In essence, it was a soup or stew made of grains and vegetables. 

Peasant homes would have a large pot over the fire, into which any scraps would go. Cabbage and bread were often added in. Mmm...their homes must've smelled ^lovely^!?

Whoever you were, it was a staple part of your diet. 


Sugar, Honey & Salt



 


LOL, that was almost Sugar Honey Ice Tea 😉

So, from around 1154, sugar was being imported and was increasingly popular and cheaper. By the end of the 14th century, one could even purchase refined sugar. It was considerably more expensive than honey though, so really only available to the middle class and up. 

Honey was widely available. Not only was it a sweetener, but was also used in medicine and a preservative. And was a key ingredient of mead (honey wine); an alcoholic beverage. However, mead was falling out of favour, as wine, ale and beer took precedence.

Salt was also a valuable commodity. As I live in Hampshire, I'd like to note that it was commonly harvested from the saltmarshes in Bitterne Manor, along the banks of the River Itchen in my county (amongst a few other places) 😊

It was used for curing/preserving meat and fish.

As a condiment, salt was only at the top table. Ergo, people sat "above the salt".


Herbs & Spices


 






Herbs were grown freely in the kitchen garden and were used for so many things. They flavoured food, were fab as anti-smell aids, cosmetics and medicine. 

There was an abundance of herbs, but some of the most popular were:

{  betony

{  chamomile

{  comfrey

{  dill

{  hyssop

{  lavender

{  lemon balm

{  lovage

{  meadowsweet

{  mint

{  rosemary

{  rue

{  sage

{  woad

{  vervain

{  yarrow

The most common (yet expensive) spices were:

{  caraway

{  cardamom 

{  cinnamon

{  cloves

{  coriander

{  cumin

{  garlic

{  ginger

{  mace

{  mustard

{  nutmeg

{  pepper

{  saffron

{  turmeric 

Spices were particularly used in the cooking of meat. Honestly, I was surprised how widely they were used. I bought a medieval cookery book, and saffron repeatedly cropped up. 

So, far from being bland, medieval cookery was strewn with yummy flavours. 

What they did not have, to my chagrin, was: potatoes, tomatoes, (*sobs*) coffee or even tea. I mean, how can anyone live without coffee OR potatoes? Heathens! 😆

 

Banquets & Feasts

 

As a Catholic nation, there were plenty of saints days to be celebrated. Plus, the harvests. Dare I say, there were hints of ancient druid/pagan festivities as they celebrated the land.

Feasts and banquets were clearly events reserved for the wealthy. It was not only about the food. They'd often be a Mass held before. Then there was the accompanying entertainment. Each course was heralded by trumpets as it was paraded in. They were about show and making connections, in all honesty. 

A subtlety was often a table decoration, made with marchpane (marzipan). And/or whole swans or peacocks, roasted in their feather could adorn the tables. 

Minstrels would play, acrobats would tumble, dancers and actors performed. Everything, even the food, decorations and clothes were a riot of colour. 

My thoughts are that feasts were a foodie celebration. Banquets were the more extravagant, all-singing, all-dancing affairs. 

Cutlery & Manners







Please rid your mind of kings gnawing on chicken legs. Grotesque! 

Table manners were important. 

So, in previous posts, I've mentioned the laver outside the Great Hall, used for washing hands before and after meals. And there were finger bowls shared between two people on the table. 

Every person would have their own knife, attached to their belt. No forks, remember! People were expected to elegantly slice meat with their knife and take it to their mouth with their fingers. Chewing with their mouth closed (much to the relief of this misophonia sufferer!). 

Spoons were used for soups and stews - hello pottage! And frumenty - which could be served hot or cold, either first or last course. This was a thick grain (cracked wheat) porridge made with warm milk. Fruit and or meat, along with spices could be added. Again, rich and poor ate this. 

Bowls were often made of wood. Trenchers did exist; the flat, stale bread, hollowed out to serve stews and soups. It is now generally believed this bread was inedible. And I'm dubious as to how common they were, in reality. Grain was precious.

Napkins in medieval England were pieces of cloth. If one was of higher rank, this would be draped over one's left shoulder. Lower ranks, over their arm. 

If someone of higher rank entered or left the room, the lower orders would stand. 

Belching and over-stuffing one's mouth were big no-nos. And nobody should ever pick their teeth with their knife. 

The upper crust of the bread should be sliced and offered to the highest ranking people. Ah, that's where "the upper crust" comes from! 



Crikey, this is a long post! I'm both tired and hungry having written all this. I'm off to make my now meagre-seeming dinner. 


Always in love and light,
TL

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My book, Love in the Roses is available for pre-order (click here).


 




To protect her family, she must marry the enemy!

The fictitious tale of a knight’s daughter, living life as it very well may have been in 1484.

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